The Abu Garcia Classic round baitcaster comes in a few reel models: C3, C4 & C. Each of these models has a handful of sizes so there is no shortage of options for any fishing application. The Abu Garcia C3-6500 was the first baitcaster I ever owned. I’ve fished this reel hard for many years and I still use it today! That said, I dissemble the reel, clean and grease it each winter which has kept it like new. The price point and specs for this reel have made it mandatory for my list.
Our thoughts: Straight up this reel offers nifty features for the price of an average reel. If looks are too important for you than don’t go for it. But if performance what you’re after than this one takes the cake. I did deep crankbaits and saw how it generates a lot of torque. You can use slow rolling big, heavy baits like big swimbait and deep water spinnerbaits. Undoubtedly one of the best baitcasting reels for the money.
When it comes to performance, it boasts CNC machined brass gears with 7.1:1 gear ratio. This contributes to the reel’s fast line retrieve and long lifespan. It also features an extended crank handle made of lightweight and strong aluminum construction. The handle has a comfortable grip and provides anglers plenty of leverage and power for pulling the largest catch out of the waters.
Once you have the reel, spool it with monofilament line in fairly heavy breaking strength—14 to 20 pounds—even if you plan on later fishing with lighter line. Heavier line is easier to learn to cast, and easier to pick out those unavoidable backlashes. Fluorocarbon line is a good choice to fish with, but it is a little harder to cast, so start with monofilament. Don't fill the spool on the reel, start with half a spool or less. The more line on the spool the heavier the spool and the faster and longer it will spin. Spinning too long is what causes backlashes (spool overruns), so start with less line.
With all the improvements made to the baitcasting fishing reels, there is no reason to fear them. They are now easy to use and offer the angler many benefits that will improve his fishing success. Start making these more extended, more precise casts, letting you lure where the fish are today.All thing i discussed how to use a baitcasting reel. Hope it will help you.
Additional things to consider when buying a baitcasting reel are the frames and ball bearings. Their frames are either machined or die cast. They are made from two different materials of aluminum or graphite and at times a mixture of the two. Durable and quality frames are usually made from a single strand of material. Ball bearings are featured to allow the free run of the reel and provide support to the gears too. Here, quality takes priority over the number and quantity. Therefore you should look out for those signed as stainless, or shielded or double shielded.
PT: Why are baitcasting reels usually cranked with the right hand, whereas spinning reels are predominantly cranked with the left? How did that happen in the industry? If an angler is right handed and cranks with his right, doesn’t switching hands to hold the baitcasting rod in his weaker left hand — cast after cast after cast — seem like wasted energy?
A great braking system is important with baitcasters as this will help prevent the brutal backlashes or “birds nest”. A backlash is when the spool over rotates after the lure has hit the water and these additional rotations cause the fishing line to bunch up on the reel. A good braking system will slow the spool down just before the end of the cast to ensure these additional rotations do not occur.
On the fishing side, the Concept A has proven to be more than capable. Casting is a breeze, thanks in part to a unique “arrowhead” line guide, and waffle spool. The internal “Concept Brake System” allows casting of lures as light as 3/16oz up to 1oz crankbaits and jigs. One knock is the lack of external access to the brakes, but once inside it’s as easy as selecting a setting form 0-6 on the dial.
Centrifugal baitcasters use a braking system similar to a car. They will be located underneath the side plates. They are adjusted by adjusting the interior pins, which can be engaged and disengaged. Pins can be engaged and disengaged by pushing them either towards or away from the center. I find centrifugal braking systems to be the far superior system. I suggest starting with a FishDrops 17+1 BB baitcasting reel from Bass Smashers. This model’s interior pins are designed like levers, which make it a baitcaster that is especially accessible for beginners.
I work part time as an IT security consultant. Luckily I can work from anywhere so I go back and forth between Colorado and Florida. I get my fix of skiing, hiking and camping in Colorado in the Dillion area, and when I am in Florida you can usually find me on the water either paddleboarding or kayaking. My recent passion is scuba diving, I got certified a few years ago and "get wet" as frequently as I can.
Drag: The drag is the part of a baitcasting reel that regulates tension placed on the line while reeling in fish. A proper drag should be able to move smoothly between heavy and lightweight regulation. This ability allows an angler to adjust his line to the size or aggression of fish he’s dealing with. A lighter fish might need less tension and freedom to roam, a heavier fish will require more tension, to compensate for its size. This is an essential part of a baitcasting reel.
SR: For someone new to baitcasting reels, make sure that there is a magnetic brake control on the palm of the reel and that it fits comfortably in your hand when attached to the rod. There are a lot of reels that have either magnetic brakes or centrifugal brakes, which are located inside the palm plate of the reel and require you to take the plate off in order to adjust the brake. There is nothing wrong with this! It’s just a matter of preference or manufacturer design. My thought is that if you’re starting out, get a reel such as my Wright & McGill Victory 11 Casting Reel that has the external brake system for quick and easy adjustments. As you become better and need less adjustments, you can go to a reel that has internal brakes.
There are a variety of different gear ratios to choose from – from 5.4:1 to 7.1:1 and 8.1:1. While these numbers might look complicated, they are actually describing a very simple event. Let’s take a reel with an 8.1:1 gear ratio. What that number means is that for every single crank of the handle, the reel will spin 8 times. However, that doesn’t mean that a higher gear ratio is better than a lower gear ratio. For certain techniques, such as working a crankbait, a lower ratio is preferred, while applications such as using a spinnerbait are best used with a reel that has a higher ratio. Most anglers buy several of these reels, all in different ratios, so they have a variety of options available to them while fishing.
C'est un de mes préférés, car il est très polyvalent. Cette version durcie du Zillion peut être employé des pêche du black bass jusqu'aux poissons amazoniens. La plage de lancer est d'environ 7g à 150g. En France, par exemple j'utilise le Prorex Classic Shad en 13cm, du spintail shad, du spinnerbait et du leurre type jerkbait. Une utilisation classique pour les pêches du brochet en France. J'apprécié aussi cette référence pour la traque du peacock bass avec une capacité de tresse de 100m de 0.35mm.